Domestic coffee beans gaining popularity in China

A coffee farmer dries fresh coffee cherries at a coffee estate in Pu'er city, southwest China's Yunnan Province. Pu'er is the largest coffee producer in China. (Xinhua/Chen Xinbo)

Chinese-grown coffee beans are brewing up a storm in cafes across cities including Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, and Xiamen, as industry insiders report a significant shift in bean selection preferences amid rising global coffee prices.

According to a report released by the International Coffee Organization in January this year, the international coffee price index has skyrocketed by 75.8 percent compared to the same period last year, with major producing regions like Brazil and Colombia experiencing widespread price growth.

In response to this international price surge, many cafe owners are turning to domestically grown alternatives, with beans produced in southwest China's Yunnan Province stealing the spotlight.

"While Yunnan beans have seen some price increases recently, they're still relatively cheaper than those from famous production areas like Colombia and Brazil, while maintaining good quality," said Wu Jianlei, a veteran in the international coffee bean trade.

Beyond cost considerations, Chinese coffee beans are processed with increasingly sophisticated techniques, ensuring consistent quality that keeps customers coming back for more, said the owner of a mid-to-high-end coffee shop in Beijing.

"We blend one or two Yunnan coffee bean varieties with imported ones in specific ratios for our signature coffees, ensuring great taste while keeping costs in check," the owner said.

Some young consumers also said they intentionally seek out domestic coffee beans for their distinct flavors. "Imported beans often have floral or sweet-and-sour notes, while Yunnan beans taste 'cleaner and smoother' — plus, they're more affordable," said a coffee enthusiast from Beijing.

A grower from Baoshan in Yunnan said that fresh coffee cherries of the Catimor variety—the dominant variety on his plantation—traded at a stable price of about 8 yuan ($1.1) per kilogram last year, up more than 2 yuan from the previous production season. In the same year, the coffee industry boosted incomes for 15,000 local coffee-growing households, with the average yield increasing by over 3,000 yuan per mu (one mu equals 667 square meters) compared to previous years.

Chinese coffee exports are also on the rise. According to data provided by Kunming Customs, Yunnan Province exported 32,500 tonnes of coffee in 2024, a staggering 358 percent year-on-year increase, to 29 countries and regions including the Netherlands, Germany, the United States, and Vietnam.

Some coffee enterprises are pushing for the high-quality development of domestic coffee. Fu Yongqiao, IP development manager of a coffee enterprise, said that beyond refining coffee bean quality, Chinese coffee brands are exploring ways to infuse their products with deeper cultural significance.

"We're pursuing quality while also striving to better promote the culture behind coffee," Fu said, hoping to introduce more consumers to Baoshan's natural beauty and cultural heritage.

"We don't just want to sell 'good-tasting coffee'—we want consumers to experience the unique culture behind it as they savor each cup," Fu said, noting that a compelling narrative that combines coffee and culture is creating broader market opportunities for domestic coffee brands.