China's horse-face skirt gains popularity overseas

Photo shows exquisite horse-faced skirts, known as mamianqun in Chinese. (Photo courtesy of the Publicity Department of the Communist Party of China Caoxian County Committee)

"At the start of this year, orders for mamianqun received by our factory were about 10 times higher than the previous year," said Hou Guodong, head of a clothing factory in Caoxian county, east China's Shandong Province. Mamianqun, also known as the horse-face skirt, is a traditional Chinese pleated skirt.

"In the past, we simply produced what foreign clients requested. Recently, we've started blending international fashion elements into our Hanfu designs, which has sparked new demand from customers," said Hou, referring to the traditional Chinese clothing style.

Over the past few years, the company has broadened its reach by participating in international Hanfu exhibitions, launching cross-border e-commerce platforms, and introducing mamianqun to an expanding global audience.

In 2025, Caoxian's Hanfu sales surpassed 13 billion yuan ($1.89 billion), with more than 2,800 Hanfu businesses and nearly 100,000 people engaged in the sector.

"From original design and pattern making to embroidery, printing, material supply, online marketing and after-sales service, we cover the entire supply chain within a 5-kilometer radius," said Liu Xia, deputy director of the county's e-commerce service center.

Caoxian's supply chain advantage supports efficient production and fuels the sector's expansion in global markets.

Ma Xiaomei, chairwoman of a clothing company in Kenya, said that after years in the clothing manufacturing industry, she has registered a Caoxian Hanfu trademark tailored to the Kenyan market and has positioned Hanfu as festive and stage wear.

Chen Xiangguang, general manager of a Brazilian cultural media company, is exploring deeper collaborations with local distributors to showcase Caoxian mamianqun alongside European and American luxury brands in the same stores, highlighting the unique appeal of mamianqun in the global fashion market.

As the industry continues to expand internationally, Caoxian mamianqun is steadily making its way into wardrobes worldwide.

"I first came across Caoxian mamianqun at a Hanfu runway show in Milan. The intricate gold-woven patterns on the skirt's hem strikingly echoed the craftsmanship of Italian haute couture," said Li Ming, head of China operations under the Association for Industrial Design, Italy.

In his view, Caoxian mamianqun is not just a museum piece to be admired, but a "living" fashion system.

In 2025, Caoxian Hanfu, led by mamianqun, reached markets in 32 countries and regions, including Japan, Italy and Australia. The county is now expanding its global presence by promoting Hanfu runway shows and establishing overseas Hanfu communities, steadily increasing its share in the international market.